We are slowly building up our database of reviews. For more current reviews,

please refer to Nottinghamshire Flavours Magazine

Ask, Nottingham

The Caunton Beck, Caunton

The Chesterfield, Bingham

Chino Latino, Nottingham

Crème, Stapleford

The Hemlock Stone, Wollaton

Ibérico, Nottingham

Le Bistrot Pierre, Nottingham

The Lord Nelson Burton Joyce

The Maid Marian / Launay's, Edwinstowe

Waggon & Horses, Halam

ASK, NOTTINGHAM

Shopping with two children in the centre of Nottingham during the Easter holidays, I steered towards Chapel Bar at lunchtime, hoping to try out one of the nicer restaurants there, which had been recommended by a colleague at Nottinghamshire Flavours. We took two steps inside the door and were politely chucked out ; ‘over 18s only, sorry’. How nice to know that some restaurants are so successful that they can turn away three potential customers on a quiet weekday lunchtime. So we went instead to Ask, one of the local family-friendly places specialising in Italian food. They couldn’t have been more welcoming to the children, immediately providing child menus, a small activity book and crayons for my girls.

Service in general was friendly and prompt, with menus and tiny ‘Specials’ blackboards placed on the table as we sat down. The menu has sections for starters, pasta and risotto, pizzas and main courses, each with 8-10 choices. The Children’s Menu costs £5.95 and gives a garlic bread starter, a choice of simple main course dishes, and two choices of puddings. The starter arrived about ten minutes after we had ordered; the garlic bread was a generous portion of pizza dough delicately flavoured with garlic butter.

Both of the girls (one of whom is a fussy eater, the other a mini-foodie) found something that they liked on the Children’s Menu; the fussy eater chose a Pizza Margherita, the foodie had Penne with tomato sauce and meatballs. I went for one of the pasta dishes, a Mezzalune ai Funghi Porcini (half-moon shaped pasta, filled with a porcini mushroom mix with thyme, and a cream and white wine sauce). The dishes were freshly prepared; our table was close to the open kitchen, and we watched the chef working; less than a minute after the Penne were swept from the pan on to the plate, they appeared on the table. The waiter returned moments after serving everything with a large block of Parmesan, which he grated on to the pasta as required. This earned a gold star from me; this is the only way that Parmesan should be served in a restaurant.

The pasta dishes were fine but unexceptional. My Mezzalune had a good Porcini flavour, but were under seasoned, and if there was any white wine involved, the bottle must simply have been wafted over the top of the pan. The Penne were also fairly bland, but, as they had come from the Children’s Menu, I wasn’t sure whether this was intentional or not. They went down well with my ten-year old, who may be a foodie, but she has not yet acquired a taste for highly-seasoned dishes.She and I shared a raspberry sorbet for pudding, while our eight-year old stuck to the Children’s Menu and had a scoop of vanilla ice cream with chocolate sauce and sprinkles. The sorbet was inoffensive but a bit too sweet; obviously not homemade, but it was a suitable follow-up to the slightly stodgy pasta mains. I glanced at the wine list, which was made up of eight to ten whites and reds, with a smaller number of rosés, some champagnes, and one dessert wine. The majority of the wines were Italian, with a smattering of Australian, French, Spanish and Chilean also represented.

We visited on a weekday lunchtime, when about half of the tables were occupied, mostly by shoppers, young professionals, and couple of other families with children. The waiter was charming to both girls, chatting easily to them on each visit to the table, but it was also leisurely; it took over an hour and a half for us to eat. I paid close to £30 for the three of us, which I felt was slightly on the high side; but ASK offers a pleasant welcome and an undemanding menu, which is perfect when you’re in town with children in tow.

Reviewed April 2009

ASK, Chapel Bar, Nottingham. Tel; 0115 958 2815

The Lord Nelson, Burton Joyce

The Lord Nelson pub in Burton Joyce has been take over by the people responsible for the Larwood and Voce restaurant in West Bridgford, a place which prides itself on its use of local produce in the kitchen. They have been advertising in the village to source as locally as possible; the duck eggs on the menu come from that place just up the A612 at Bulcote; a total of one food mile; impressive.

When I visited the Lord Nelson, just a few days after the launch of the new venture, I was surprised at how full the car park was. The dining room was fairly crowded when my companion and I arrived for an early dinner, and we even struggled to find somewhere to sit in the bar before we went to the table.

Once seated, the waiting staff brought the menus quickly and took our orders for drinks. The à la carte menu has half a dozen choices at each course, with starters and puds priced at around a fiver, main courses in the mid-teens, which we thought was perhaps a little on the high side for this area. However, there is also the option to choose a 2-course menu for £12 or £15 for three courses; the two or three choices at each course appear on the main a la carte menu, marked with an asterisk. Several of the starters could be upsized and served as a main course, which is a nice touch.

There was a good and varied wine list, with glasses and bottles at sensible prices, and a small selection of dessert wines also available. We were impressed by the quality of the wine that we chose, and also pleased to note that a carafe of tap water was willingly served at the table.

Our starters actually arrived before the drinks did, and when they finally made their appearance, there was some confusion because my G+T was served in a large tumbler and we mistook it for my companion’s mineral water.

The starters were very acceptable though; generously sized and tasty. I had chosen the chicken liver paté, a lovely creamy confection which came in a lidded pot with half-a-dozen triangles of crisp, warm, wholemeal toast; my companion chose the half-pint prawn cocktail, which, as the name implies, came in a small beer glass.

For main courses, we chose pork belly with apple and onion, and chicken breast with peas. Both were pronounced acceptable, and my pork belly was enormous, a hearty chunk some 9 or 10 inches long, with a magnificent piece of crackling on it. I felt that perhaps the rest of the meat had been ever so slightly sacrificed in order to create the golden and crispy crackling; it was a little overdone. Quite tasty, however, and the accompanying apple compote came in its own little pot. The onion was actually half of a large red onion wound around with a strip of bacon and roasted in the oven, which worked very well, and was sufficient to accompany the large piece of meat; one of my pet peeves is when a sauce or vegetable provided with a dish only sees you halfway through the course.

In spite of the generous portions at the main course, we had decided, on catching a glimpse of the pudding menu at the start of the meal, to allow some room for dessert; my companion opted for the Eton Mess, a decadent mixture of cream, meringue and Summer fruits. The wafer-biscuits accompanying the dish had, I think, been made on the premises, as they were in the shape of a pair of ladies’ legs, giving the impression that the owner had just dived into the pudding. I chose the chef’s homemade sorbets as a balance to the richness of the pork, and was impressed by the quality and again the size of the portion.

Service throughout the meal was friendly and enthusiastic; the starter and main courses arrived promptly and together. This is obviously a young and somewhat inexperienced team; apart from the confusion over the drinks, we were left for around twenty minutes after the main course had been cleared away before a young lady asked brightly “Are you waiting for something?” “Yes”, we said “Pudding”. “Oh, I’m sure that they’ll be along soon’ she said; and we had to explain that we had yet to choose from the menu. However, the staff were punctilious about coming to the table when we had taken delivery of each course to check that everything was all right; and their general air of friendliness and willingness minimised the small slip-ups. I am sure that continuing experience will iron out the minor problems.

The restaurant seems to have inherited a layout from the previous pub, and it seemed a little odd, as well as the bar in the waiting area, to have a second bar in the restaurant itself. The main disadvantage of this was that there is a television screen over the second bar, and if you are seated facing the screen, its brightness is somewhat distracting.

Other than these small points, a good evening, and the ‘prix-fixe’ arrangement provided excellent value for money, especially remembering the generous portion sizes.

I shall watch developments with interest, but it looks as if the Lord Nelson will be a welcome addition to the dining scene north of the city.

Review date; August 2008

The Lord Nelson, Chestnut Grove, Burton Joyce. Tel; 0115 931 1800

Our Mystery Diners visit a restaurant incognito and do not accept any complimentary food or drink from the establishment being reviewed.

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The Caunton Beck, Caunton, near Newark

The Caunton Beck has long been one of my ‘old-faithful’ restaurants; a reliable favourite to which it is always a pleasure to return. I was visiting Southwell recently and, having finished my various jobs in the early evening, started to think about dinner. An old friend joined me as we made the fifteen-minute drive from Southwell to Caunton.

Nothing has changed since my last visit; this is a real gastro-pub, and one passes through the bar, where locals sit with their pints, en route to the restaurant. Large windows provide a view of the eponymous beck or stream. The restaurant is furnished with traditional wooden tables and chairs, the walls liberally hung with assorted artwork.

We were seated promptly, and served with drinks and a basket of breads which emitted a variety of enticing aromas. Closer investigation revealed several brown chunks, each studded with seeds and sun-dried tomatoes. The waitress also offered us a carafe of tap-water; hooray! It’s still rare, and so many restaurants manage to make you feel like a cheapskate if you ask for tap water.

The Caunton Beck is an offshoot of Lincoln’s Wig and Mitre, another ‘old faithful’ when one is in that neck of the woods. Their menu here boasts eight or ten choices at each course, plus another four or five suggestions for starter, mains and puddings on the blackboard over the fireplace. As this showed signs of recent erasures as dishes were sold out, I took this to mean that the blackboard menu was made up entirely of fresh produce.

Each dish on the main menu comes with wine suggestions, most being available either in a bottle or a glass. The wine-list itself was not extensive, being one side of an A4 piece of paper, but the selection was varied, both in origin and price. The menu is dated, and on the day we visited, was a little over two weeks old; an indication that it is changed frequently to match the dishes in season.

Not being able to face a three-course meal, my companion and I went straight for the mains, where we chose lamb on a bed of mushroom risotto, and cod with samphire. The lamb came cooked pink, as the waitress had said it would; she had given me the option when ordering the dish to request a longer cooking if required - I declined. The meat was tender and well-flavoured. The risotto was really excellent; a flavoursome, slightly sticky mound of rice studded with large chunks of mushroom. A slender ribbon of balsamic vinegar bordered the plate, and I think that my one criticism would have been that it needed a little more of this glaze, as it was well-flavoured without being overpowering and added a piquancy to the lamb. My companion’s fish was fresh and well-cooked, and the samphire formed a pleasant and tasty base to the dish. Portion sizes were perfectly adequate, though perhaps not for gentlemen with large appetites. We were offered the choice of vegetables or salad; my companion chose the former, and I the latter. Each came in a separate dish to the main plate; the salad was a variety of baby leaves which came well-tossed in a herby mayonnaise; the vegetables were the ubiquitous small bowl of steamed potatoes, carrots, French beans and cauliflower, which I find slightly boring, but which my companion enjoyed. I had made the right choice with the salad, as the dressed leaves formed a very fitting accompaniment to the lamb and rice. Presentation was good, with both meat and fish arranged neatly on top of the accompanying items.

For pudding, I went for the blackboard specials again, this time a lemon posset with shortbread and red- and blackcurrants. The waitress was unable to explain what a posset was, but summoned her manager who arrived within a few seconds The posset came minus the shortbread but with a scoop of lemon sorbet, which was a shame; the shortbread was what was really needed to balance the sharpness of the posset, which was delicious. My companion chose from the main menu, an almond and cherry tart with vanilla ice cream, which she pronounced very acceptable. The presentation was again good; my lemon posset probably better-looking than the almond tart; the latter was simply a slice of tart on a plate with a scoop of ice cream; the posset came in a glass, with the unsweetened currants on top, and the scoop of sorbet to the side.

The service was extremely pleasant and friendly; on the night that we visited, there seemed to be only one waitress on duty, along with the manageress. As we arrived early, when the restaurant was quiet, this wasn’t a problem at first, but as the evening wore on and things became more lively, it took longer and longer for us to get attention. We sat with dirty pudding plates in front of us for twenty minutes before managing to get the waitress’s attention to ask for the bill.

Two courses each, plus drinks, came to around £48 with tip; not bad for this standard of food. Slow service aside, the Caunton Beck continues to maintain its standards and is a welcome feature of the dining scene in this part of the county.

Review date; July 2008

The Caunton Beck, Newark Road, Caunton Tel; 01636 636793

Our Mystery Diners visit a restaurant incognito and do not accept any complimentary food or drink from the establishment being reviewed.

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Chino Latino, Nottingham

The publicity for this restaurant, one of the many now lining Maid Marian Way, describes it as a blend of Pan-Asian cuisine and Latin cocktails.

The restaurant is actually part of the Park Plaza Hotel. I visited one quiet lunchtime, having heard good reports, but never having eaten there before. The greeting was prompt and friendly, and, unusually, our coats were taken, before we were given our choice of tables; the restaurant was almost empty. The decor is modern, in red, grey and black, and the floor-to-ceiling windows offer a somewhat unprepossessing view of the traffic. Menus and the wine list arrived quickly, and the waitress explained the basic concept of the cuisine and took our order for drinks. There is a specific Lunch menu, composed of a series of themed Bento boxes (spicy, chicken, vegetarian, salmon and so on), and an à la carte with about ten different starters, many of them with an Asian theme, and six main courses. For the uninitiated, a Bento box is a Japanese term for a packed lunch, served in a flat box divided into several compartments, each housing a different type of food.

I chose the Spicy Bento box, which served as a combination starter and main, and my companion selected from the a la carte menu.

We hovered for a while over the wine list, which is comprehensive and divides the wines not only by colour but also by category; ‘’Refined smooth and mature reds’, ‘fruit-driven and aromatic whites’, which we felt was helpful. There is a choice of nine champagnes; but despite the temptation, we both decided to stick with water, as we were both planning to drive that afternoon.

The Bento box consisted of Pad Thai noodles, beef salad, prawn and mango spring rolls, and salmon fishcakes. The portions were more than adequate, and each item well-prepared and tasty, with the exception of the fishcakes, which were sadly in need of seasoning. The beef salad was served in a very light, slightly vinegary dressing, and the lean meat was tossed with slices of tomato, cucumber, onion and chilli. The Pad Thai noodles were coated with a spicy dressing and plentifully sprinkled with dried red chilli flakes, and the spring rolls were well-filled and not greasy. I gave up on the fishcakes simply because of the lack of seasoning. My companion’s slow-cooked duck with chilli pineapple, followed by rack of lamb with edamame, was also judged to be well-cooked and presented.

The waitress returned to the table to check that everything was to our liking, but then left us in peace; it drives me crazy when they hover around, asking every few minutes if everything is okay. The two waitresses kept a discreet eye on us, however, so that the plates were cleared away promptly at the end of each course.

My companion claimed that she had no room for dessert, but when the time came, she was happy to tuck into a share of mine. After the spiciness of my main course, I didn’t really fancy either of the cakey puddings on the small dessert menu, but the ice-cream caught my eye, and I happily worked through a selection of sorbets; mango, apple and coconut, which, the waitress assured me, are made by the chef on the premises. I can certainly believe this; they were really excellent, especially the apple sorbet, which was delicately flavoured and extremely refreshing.

The bill for two came to just over £40, which we considered reasonable for the quality of food and the friendliness and efficiency of the service. We would both be happy to return to Chino Latino, perhaps next time for dinner.

Review date; October 2008

Chino Latino, Maid Marian Way, Nottingham Tel; 0115 947 7444

Our Mystery Diners visit a restaurant incognito and do not accept any complimentary food or drink from the establishment being reviewed.

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The Hemlock Stone

The Hemlock Stone at Wollaton was recently revamped to turn it into a stylish gastro pub. The décor is modern, with a soft colour palette, and tables are well-spaced, resulting in an uncrowded feel to the restaurant. There is an al fresco area which must be popular for Summer Dining, and French windows look out on to this garden in the chillier months. We visited on a weekday evening, when the place was uncrowded, and were impressed with the prompt arrival and cheerful welcome offered by our waitress. We took a while to browse through the menu; my companion indulged in a pre-dinner drink and was impressed by the ‘decent measure of gin’ in his G & T. The wine list was quite extensive, and many were available by the glass as well as by the bottle. There was also a cider menu, and some interesting-looking juices and cordials, most of which seem to be locally-made. Wine prices ranged from around £11 to almost £100 for their best Dom Perignon. As the designated driver, I did not indulge, but my guest was planning to enjoy a glass or two; unfortunately, the waitress forgot to ask whether we wanted any wines, so my companion made do with his G & T. Tap water was brought when we asked for it.

The menu was comprised of a good variety of dishes, ranging from pastas and salads to more elaborate meals. We began with a tasty Venison and Game Paté and a portion of Potato Wedges. The latter was well-prepared, but would have benefited from a little more of the cheese and bacon topping, which was evident but not plentiful.

For the main course; my companion’s Fish and Chips looked and tasted delicious; they were served with a small pot of mushy peas and some tartare sauce. I ordered the Belly Pork; it arrived in three pieces on a bed of pesto mash, accompanied by a ‘rich jus’ and again a small pot of mushy peas. The belly pork was well-cooked and beautifully presented, with the pesto mash providing a piquant and unusual alternative to the standard potatoes. The peas were disappointing, being sadly under-seasoned, and I would say the same for the sauce, which looked perfect, but which didn’t follow through on flavour.

We would not perhaps have gone on to have puddings under normal circumstances, having filled up on the first and main courses; but as a reviewer, one has an excuse for indulging further! My companion went for the Simply Ice Cream, again locally made, and I enjoyed the Eton Mess, made with strawberries and raspberries, presumably not local (we visited in October); although, when I make it at home, I add just a touch of sugar to the fruit, and these berries needed it.

The menu tempted us further with eight different types of coffee, tea (normal, green or peppermint) and even hot chocolate; but we felt that we had eaten and drunk enough. Our bill came to £40 for two.

Review date; November 2008

The Hemlock Stone, Bramcote Lane, Wollaton, NG8 2QQ Tel; 0115 928 4463 www.hemlockstone.co.uk

Our Mystery Diners visit a restaurant incognito and do not accept any complimentary food or drink from the establishment being reviewed.

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Le Bistrot Pierre, Nottingham

I happened to be walking past Le Bistrot Pierre as they opened the doors at 5.30 after a last-minute dash to the shops; having had very little lunch and knowing that it would be several hours before I had another opportunity to eat, I decided to pop in.

I had assumed that there would be no problem in getting a table at that time on a Saturday, but there were very few spaces on the restaurant manager’s table plan. I was seated, and watched a steady stream of diners coming in, presumably drawn by the reasonably priced Early Bird Menu; before I left, people were being turned away.

Le Bistrot Pierre has been part of the Nottingham dining scene for around fifteen years, and is now a member of a mini-chain of six restaurants located throughout the Midlands. The emphasis is, as you’d guess from the name, on French food, and a lot of the staff hail from across the Channel.

I glanced through the Early Bird Menu (two courses for £12.90), which offered a selection of six or seven dishes for starters and mains, and a separate dessert menu. A Specials board is on the wall. The restaurant’s policy of responsibly-sourced produce, Scottish beef, free range chickens and eggs, organic milk and outdoor-reared pork, is stated on the menu. The wine list offers about fifteen reds and the same number of whites, categorised according to characteristics such as ‘Crisp, fresh and sappy’, ‘Richer, soft and mellow’, ‘Hearty, aromatic and toothsome’, which is helpful for those who don’t know their vintages particularly well. There are also a few rosés, dessert and sparkling wines.

The waiter appeared after five minutes, and took my order for a simple ‘Steak-frites’, a rump steak, served with green peppercorn and brandy sauce and accompanied by chips and some salad. A bowl of warm, sliced baguette appeared (who can resist the smell of warm bread?), along with some pats of French butter.

The steak arrived only five minutes later, cooked exactly right, though perhaps was a little more fatty than I would wish. The salad was a mixture of frisée lettuce and other leaves, and the chips inoffensive and crisp. The sauce was nicely peppery, though without a discernible brandy taste.

I am unable to resist a dessert at the best of times, and am morally obliged to have one when reviewing, so I opted for the chocolate fondant with vanilla ice cream. Again, this arrived quickly, and the pudding was very tasty, though perhaps cooked for a minute or two longer than necessary. Vanilla ice cream is the ideal accompaniment to the chocolate, and this one was fine, but I would think, not made on the premises.

The service throughout was efficient and friendly, and I left the restaurant 55 minutes after I had arrived, feeling well-satisfied with the food and what I thought was a fair price. I hear that there are regularly queues outside Le Bistrot Pierre at lunchtimes; it is good to see a restaurant doing well in these troubled times.

Reviewed February 2009

Le Bistrot Pierre, 13-17 Milton Street, Nottingham Tel; 0115 941 2850 www.lebistrotpierre.co.uk

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Waggon & Horses, Halam

After sampling their excellent ‘Nottinghamshire Pie’ at the Minster School PTA Quiz Night recently, I was inspired to re-visit The Waggon and Horses at Halam.

I arranged to meet a friend for lunch, as I had been told that they do a very good set price menu, with a wide selection of choices, alongside the usual à la carte lunch menu.

I remember the Waggon and Horses at Halam as a local village pub with a very good restaurant. However, the food side of the business now seems to have taken over completely, leaving no room for those who enjoyed a quiet drink in their local village hostelry. Although they remain proud of their beers and wines, and have a good selection to choose from, it seems now to be a pub in name only.

The restaurant was almost full when we arrived, so we took a small table by the door, and ordered drinks from the very pleasant waitress, who also brought over the menus. She explained the menu and pointed out the specials board - a varied choice including traditional dishes alongside more unusual ones. I had to ask about the ‘Wolf’ fish, as I had never even heard of it! Of course, I then could not resist trying it for myself. We continued our order, and were both very impressed when we were offered a better table which had just become available.

Our starters soon arrived. We had both chosen a light salad; Smoked Mackerel with Horseradish Cream, and a baked Salmon Salad, which were both flavoursome and delicious. The mains were beautifully presented, with an accompanying mixed vegetable platter including broccoli, cauliflower, carrots and beans, and a bowl full of lovely chunky chips. My Wolf fish, which was served with a creamy white wine and dill sauce on a bed of mashed potato and spinach, had a delicate flavour which was perfectly complimented by the subtle sauce. My companion had a contrasting dish of Duck with a red wine jus, a much stronger flavour which looked, and I am assured, tasted wonderful.

Pudding was the highlight of the meal - we chose the same as we could not resist the chance to sample the Rhubarb Crumble with Custard. The contrast between the sharp, sour fruit, and the just sweet enough crumble topping and home-made custard was sublime.

We skipped coffee, as we had arrived late, and they were keen to clear the restaurant.

We had both enjoyed the meal, and felt £36.00 for two to be excellent value for money, served by professional and friendly waiting staff.

Reviewed February 2009

The Waggon & Horses, The Turnpike, Halam Tel; 01636 813 109 www.thewaggonathalam.co.uk

Our Mystery Diners visit a restaurant incognito and do not receive any complimentary food or drink from the establishment being reviewed.

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THE CHESTERFIELD, BINGHAM

I had a meeting in Bingham recently and popped in to The Chesterfield for lunch. It’s a pub-restaurant close to the Market Square; the original building has obviously been expanded into what used to be an outbuilding. Things were quiet in there on a Thursday lunchtime, in spite of the fact that it was market day; but the few people in the restaurant were clearly locals. The welcome was friendly and casual, and the waitress brought the menu within a few minutes of my arrival. There was an a la carte menu and half a dozen reasonably-priced lunch specials. I chose Fish and Chips from that menu, and it arrived about fifteen minutes later, piping hot, clearly freshly cooked, and served with mushy peas and a little pot of tartare sauce. The fish looked wonderful, and the texture was superb; crispy, golden batter, substantial but not overwhelming. Unfortunately, it was also tasteless. The chips, on the other hand, were really delicious, nicely browned, slightly crisp, and infinitely superior to the usual bland fare. I asked the waitress how the chips were cooked to achieve the flavour, but she couldn’t shed any light on the matter “They’re just done in the fryer” she said.

The portion was quite adequate for a lunch, but I felt honour-bound to try one of the puddings as well, and chose Panna Cotta with stewed fruits. This was perfectly pleasant, if a little sweet, but my main objection was the price; the main course cost £5.95, which was good value; the pudding cost £4.95, which wasn’t. This took the shine off the meal somewhat. If you make the effort to have a well-priced lunch menu, why not have a few simple and inexpensive puds on offer as well?

But that was my only quibble. I’ll happily return here for lunch, and won’t bother with dessert next time.

The bill came to just under £14 including a drink.

Reviewed May 2009

The Chesterfield, Church Street, Bingham. NG13 8AL Tel; 01949 837 342

Our Mystery Diners visit a restaurant incognito and do not receive any complimentary food or drink from the establishment being reviewed.

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IBERICO, Nottingham

Ibérico is located under the Galleries of Justice in the Lace Market; its discreet entrance just to the right of the museum. I had heard good things about this tapas restaurant, and it has been on my ‘must try’ list for quite a while, so I was glad to meet a friend for an early dinner there one evening in August. It had to be an early dinner because the restaurant was fully-booked later; a healthy sign in these difficult times, and at this quiet time of the year.

A word of explanation for the uninitiated; ‘tapas’ is a form of snacking from Spain. Nibbles of meat, fish or vegetables are ordered to go with a drink in a bar, and they used to be served in a tiny dish which fitted over the top of your glass. ‘Tapa’ is the Spanish word for a lid, and nowadays, ordering a whole series of tapas for a leisurely light meal is an acceptable form of dining out, and the fashion has spread to other countries. Our waitress explained the concept, and suggested that we select five or six different dishes from the menu, which is divided into meat, fish and vegetables, and between traditional Spanish snacks and those from other parts of the world; Ibérico specialises in ‘world tapas’. Each item is served communally; one plate arrives with several tiny portions on it, and each dish arrives from the kitchen when it is ready, so service is an ongoing process. Once you have eaten your five or six dishes, you can decide whether you want more.

We began with a portion of clams in a garlicky butter. These were delicious, and so was the bread on which they were served; the garlic butter had soaked through the bread and made it very moreish. Next came a sort of mini-paella, a savoury rice with seafood, some black cod, and an exquisitely light but rich chicken liver terrine served in a tiny pot with triangles of toast and a dish of chutney. This had been recommended by a friend, and it did not disappoint. Courgette flowers stuffed with a rich and pungent cheese then arrived, along with some meltingly tender belly pork, which disappeared very quickly. It doesn’t sound like much as I write it now, but the tasty, perfectly seasoned mouthfuls were satisfyingly filling; we did order a second portion of the clams, but otherwise felt that we had eaten enough. My companion ordered dessert; a lemon sorbet, which served to satisfy his sweet tooth, but was light enough to follow the rich and tasty tapas.

The bill for two came to just under £60 including two beers and a bottle of water. Not cheap, but for this quality of food, it was an acceptable price, and we look forward to returning.

Ibérico, The Shire Hall, High Pavement, Nottingham NG1 1HN Tel; 0115 941 0410 www.ibericotapas.com

Reviewed in August 2009

THE MAID MARIAN / LAUNAY'S, Edwinstowe

Friends had recommend thie restaurant on various occasions, so I decided to give it a try for myself.The restaurant has two halves; the old pub, and a recently-built extension; we were seated in the latter for an early dinner on a week-night. After a short delay, we were presented with the menu, which offered a choice of six or eight dishes at each course. Drinks were brought and our order taken; we asked for a wine list, but it took another twenty minutes for it to arrive. The food too was rather slow; close to 45 minutes from placing our order to receiving our main courses. There is a note on the menu that all of the food is freshly cooked, but we felt that this was stretching the point rather, on a quiet week-night with only two other tables occupied. I had chosen a pork plate; a fillet wrapped around a piece of black pudding and encased in bacon; a piece of gammon, and a slice of belly pork, served on a bed of mashed potato and creamed cabbage. The presentation was excellent, the meat tasty, though the belly pork was slightly overcooked; the potato was well-made, but the cabbage a little disappointing; it looked like coleslaw, but the taste was rather bland. My companion chose the Oriental duck breast, served with stir-fried cabbage and jasmine rice. The duck breast was superb; perfectly cooked, very tender (and that’s not easy to do with duck), but the vegetables tasted overwhelmingly of sesame oil.

Puddings were excellent; I had the Assiette du Chocolat, a sampler plate of three chocolate desserts; a mint-chocolate ice cream, a brownie, and an orange-chocolate mousse. The presentation was superb; fresh berries, caramel and chocolate swirls, and a dollop of fresh cream; and each of the chocolate items was delicious. My companion thoroughly enjoyed the homemade Bakewell Tart with ice cream, so the meal ended on a high note. We paid just under £45 for two courses each, a bottle of water, a cocktail and a glass of wine.

This was actually our second visit to the Maid Marian in the last two months. The first time, we came for Sunday lunch; thoroughly enjoyed our starters and puddings, but were utterly disappointed with our mains; we had both chosen a traditional dish; roast beef and roast pork, and although again the presentation was good, the meat was tasteless and the potatoes and Yorkshire puddings had clearly been reheated. I would normally have given up on a restaurant at that point, but was swayed by those friends who are great fans of the place. So mostly, a good experience here, but a problem I think with consistency. But when it is good, it is very, very good.

Reviewed August/September 2009

The Maid Marian has since changed its name to Launay's

Church Street, Edwinstowe, Notts. NG21 9QA Tel; 01623 822266

CREME, Stapleford

This restaurant was first recommended to me by a friend who lives in Beeston. I had lunch there last year, and was glad to return for dinner.

The décor is cool and contemporary, and the welcome friendly. We were seated and menus brought over promptly; we were glad to order quickly as they were clearly expecting a large party in for dinner.

My companion started with a generous portion of Prawn Cocktail, and I had the Deep-Fried Brie, which was very tasty and obviously homemade. Two large triangles of cheese were covered in a crispy beer batter and served with an onion chutney.

For our main courses; I saw Belly Pork on the menu, which I always like to order, as it’s not difficult to get right, but many places still manage to get it wrong. Not Crème, who served a tender, perfectly-cooked piece of pork, well-seasoned and served with an apple compote. My companion enjoyed his Braised Blade of Beef, slow-cooked and beautifully tender, in a rich gravy. The vegetables were served separately; today it was mangetout and red cabbage, which went perfectly with both dishes.

After my rich main, I wanted something light, and the Passion-fruit jelly was the perfect finale; slightly sour, deeply flavoured, very refreshing, and obviously made on the premises. My companion had the treacle tart with oatmeal, again homemade, but perhaps a little heavy following the beef; that wasn’t the restaurant’s fault, of course.

By the time we left, the restaurant was about 75% full; not bad for a Thursday evening in July; it is obviously well known and liked locally. This is excellent food, confidently cooked; portions are generous and presentation is polished.

At £40 for three courses each, including a bottle of water and a glass of wine, we felt that this was exceptional value for money. Cooking on this level is not widespread in the suburbs, and all the more welcome for that. We would be happy to go back to Crème.

Reviewed July 2009

Crème, 12 Toton Lane, Stapleford, Notts. NG9 7HA Tel; 0115 939 7422www.cremerestaurant.co.uk

Our Mystery Diners visit a restaurant incognito and do not accept any complimentary food or drink in return for their review.